Muscadet

Like Muscadet, this is a wine with a lot of seaside influence with body, also often intensified by lees contact.

We also have an intriguing natural wine made from melon, the grape of Muscadet, and a robust Sicilian red ideal for hearty autumn fare.

I find the combination creates a metallic taste and prefer Chablis or Muscadet.

With unadorned raw oysters or oysters and mignonette, the classics — Muscadet, Chablis and Sancerre — are all wonderful.

But it’s implicit in every column, like this early one about Muscadet.