bialy

Harvey Averne begins most days with a bialy and whitefish salad.

Then he reached into a bag by his side and handed me a fresh bialy.

Every day, I would order the same thing — a bialy with cream cheese and a large coffee — from a counterman who never said a word.

And a really good trip back would include a bialy from Kossar’s and a slice from Upside Pizza or Joe’s in the Village.

Both traits are intensified if you have the bialy thoroughly toasted, as the person behind the counter will almost certainly recommend.