Castelvetro

And I can’t help but think that if Giacomo Castelvetro and John Evelyn — those early defenders of salad purity — were handed a bowl of this, still cold from the fridge, they might pause.

Lambrusco wines come in quite a few styles, depending on which clone is used and how the wine is made, but the deepest and driest of them, lambrusco grasparossa di castelvetro, cries out for a protein-rich foodstuff.

On the opposite end of the spectrum lies Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro, a darker, fruitier, more tannic style that Ms. Davis recommends reaching for when “you want something more expressive as a red wine.”

The Venetian refugee Giacomo Castelvetro wrote in his 1614 treatise The Fruit, Herbs and Vegetables of Italy that although wild mushrooms are “as abundant here in England as they are in Italy … few people seem to know much about them”.

The bottle-ready wine came from a winery known as The Cellar Settecani Castelvetro.