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Burgundy also produces an increasingly successful sparkling wine, called Crémant de Bourgogne, and a small amount of rosé.

I’m tempted to call Crémant de Bourgogne the “poor man’s champagne,” but I can already hear producers objecting.

France’s budget alternative to champagne is ����é�����Գ�, made in the same traditional method but in different regions, from different grape varieties and with less pressure driving the bubbles into your nose.

Pro tip: Crémant de Bourgogne, made from chardonnay and pinot noir in the region most famous for those grapes, comes closest to champagne in flavor and style, at a more modest price.

For this week’s selections, we have two chardonnays and a Crémant de Bourgogne sparkling wine from one of my favorite Mâconnais producers.