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From her home in Vermont, where she and her sunny, self-sufficient life partner, Holly, run a pygmy-goat sanctuary, Alison stews over what she knows is the highest-class of problems: She hates what’s happened to her emotionally nuanced and highly personal book, but she’s also grown used to a life of farmers-market fleur de sel and creme fraiche — and goat chow doesn’t buy itself.

Whip in a little extra air with an immersion blender or fold in ����è���� fraîche for something closer to a mousse.

Or whip it airy with ����è���� fraîche or corn purée?

An earlier version of the Tequila Sunrise is said to have been created in the 1930s or 1940s at the Arizona Biltmore Hotel, using tequila, soda, lime juice and créme de cassis — a heavy, red liqueur, according to Chilled Magazine.

She finishes the dish with a dill sour cream for balance, though she encourages swapping in whatever tangy dairy you’ve got in the fridge — Greek yogurt, ����è���� fraîche, even buttermilk.