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Under whizzing bullets and a hail of Russian rockets, he said, he moved over half of Matro Luxe’s equipment from factories in Kyiv and Dnipro, in the east, and plans on expanding the business.

For executives like Pavlo Chernyak, the head of Matro Luxe, one of Ukraine’s biggest mattress makers, relocating to Ukraine’s western frontier opens what he sees as a great opportunity to offer employment to some of the tens of thousands of people who lost jobs because of the war.

To the Greeks, or at least those aristocratic enough to qualify as Matro’s audience, this was parody.

Matro aimed for comedy in the excesses of his dinner-party verse, but the tone of Archestratos’ work isn’t so clear, and he was disdained by later scholars for daring to imagine that, in compiling an index of culinary pleasures, he was “laying the foundation of some science likely to improve human existence.”