Olives

Capers, olives, a swirl of miso paste, an anchovy or two mashed into the olive oil.

“Black beans are my favorite. Definitely ropa vieja and tostones. Picadillo is really good too — it’s minced meat in tomato sauce and olives. Cuban food is really well condimented. It’s not spicy but it has… spices. Oh my gosh, I love it. It’s so yummy.”

Taut apricots and briny olives.

Everyone brings something: a tray of dough, a jar of olives, a bottle of wine.

Once the hype died down and crowds moved on to other styles of Mexican food, Barragan’s still attracted longtimers with its stiff margaritas and reliably delicious meals, all based on Ramon’s recipes that called for freshly made sauces and limited the “ingredients out of cans to tomatoes and maybe olives,” according to his daughter, Carmen.