Pommard

Lenné Estate 2019 pinot noir, Yamhill-Carlton, $40: From what is viewed as a classic vintage in the Willamette Valley, Steve Lutz uses the “sexy clone” — Pommard — as the foundation of this elegant cuvée, which pushes ripe and dusty red berries ahead of earthiness.

Pinot noir lovers could spend their lives, and livers, exploring the appellations of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, from the flowery bouquet of Chambolle-Musigny to the power of Pommard and the velvet of Volnay.

From a single vineyard near the village of Pommard, this is enchantingly slinky with perfectly rendered summer berry fruit.

It also includes a number of red wine areas like Volnay, Pommard, Monthelie and Santenay; numerous appellations around Beaune, including Savigny-lès-Beaune and Chorey-lès-Beaune, and around Corton, like Aloxe-Corton and Pernand-Vergelesses.

The three producers in the next tier were likewise superb, including our runner-up, the opulent yet focused Pommard from Benjamin Leroux; the balanced, energetic, slightly exotic Monthelie from Pierre Morey at No. 3; and the savory, complex Volnay from Henri Boillot.